[HOW TO] Recover no beep / dead Intel based Qnap x53/x51 (2014~2016?)

[AlastairStevenson]

Everything else seems to be functioning fine for now.

Please be aware that this is just temporary - the degradation will continue while the device is powered on and the device will be likely at some point to fail completely.
Best to ensure that your backups are usable and up to date and you take steps to transfer needed data to a replacement device.

[Nounours18200]

I have noticed that my Qnap takes long (around 15min to boot up now) and my front light panel stills looks like a Christmas Tree

Not normal: something is still going wrong...

[Woody_ch]

BIG Warning (TS-453-Pro): NEVER disable USB3 in the BIOS. This will basically brick your QNAP.
Problem ist: The recovery procedure described by QNAP uses a complately outdated knoppix (dsl linux) image which does not support USB3 thus can not be operated by Keyboard.
Solution which offers itself, is to disable USB3 in the Bios. But this will COMPLETELY disable USB, prohibiting your QNAP to boot from an USB stick or access the internal boot disk or use a keyboard.
BIOS stores Settings in an EEPORM. So removing the CR2023 will not clear the BIOS. Board also has NO BIOS Reset-Switch.

My feeling is, that QNAP has to offer an SATA boot image, which re-enables USB3 in the BIOS (or re-flashes BIOS) and offers to restore DOM. (My DOM's first FAT partition got corrupted during update to QTS 5.x)

[aspadeaspade]

My TS-651 showed a very gradual progression of this defect. The fan speed sensors went out two full years ago, which QNAP support blamed on third party malware (as a pure video dump on a local network with no third party apps at all this was a headscratcher), after that it continued to run 24/7 with no issues until it finally disappeared from the network and failed to boot this week. I followed this guide, measured 2.3V from 1-8, and the 100 ohm resistor brought it back to life with working fan sensors again as well.

I don't trust myself soldering that close to a PCB so I snipped a PC speaker header in half down the middle and used those pieces to slip over the specified pins on that connector block.

Has this fix been around long enough to have a guestimate on how long this hack will keep the device alive? Obviously these aren't to be trusted with important data but it would be nice to have a guess of when I'll need to replace it outright.

[Nounours18200]

and the 100 ohm resistor brought it back to life with working fan sensors again as well.

Good news, one more NAS saved !

Has this fix been around long enough to have a guestimate on how long this hack will keep the device alive? Obviously these aren't to be trusted with important data but it would be nice to have a guess of when I'll need to replace it outright.

This is a question that all of us have, but there is no clear reply.
The 100 ohm resistor is a fix to a hardware default of the Intel clock, but we all know that the default will surface again sooner or later.

How long that is the question... Some people have fixed their NAS for many months, possibly more than 1 year, and it is still alive.

It is wise to use the NAS as a backup NAS, and to store your critical data on another one.

[mclions]

I did what was recommended exactly as you wrote, and soldering a 100 ohm resistor between pins 1 and 8 of the LPC connector, the NAS restarted without problems. QNAP TS-451U.
thank you so much for the work you do.
Daniele Leone

[Nounours18200]

Excellent !

[Sniks6]

Thank you very much.

Did solder 100 Ohm resistor between pin 1 and pin 8.

20211105_154221.jpg

TS-453 Pro worked again immediately!!

20211105_154227.jpg

Thank you so much!!!!!

[Nounours18200]

You are welcome !
You can also try with a higher resistance value (people have tried with something around < 400 ohms) : this will reduce the current in the defective transistor, and then we can expect a longer life....
I am still with my 100 ohms resistor because I have no time.

[Maurice84]

I have a recently dead QNAP TS-453B (blinking red light, no fan, no hdd spinup) and had hopes of fixing the problem as described in this topic. I have a 9pin LPC header but unfortunately Pin 1 of the LPC CLK is reading ~0.6v, so for my understanding I need to gain the voltage just enough it should reach ~1.7v? Pin 8 is reading Ground and all other pins are 3.3v (except pin 6 which is ~0,1v). Unfortunately I do not have a scope, so I'm touching a bit in the dark here (except for the voltages).

I went on soldering a resistor between Pin 1 and a 3.3v pin from the white COM header next to it (just to prevent disturbing other LPC pins) which gave me 3.3v on Pin 1, but it did not matter which resistor I chose (100ohm/220ohm kept it at 3.3v). I then thought lowering the value by combining soldering a 220ohm resistor between Pin 1 and 8 (ground) and that did lower the voltage to 1.3v, but before I ruin anything I'd like an opinion on this approach.

Should I continue increasing the resistor value to have Pin 1 around 1.7v? Or should I do something else in this case (i.e. jumpwires/chip-leg soldering?)

[devs101]

Hello everyone and congratulations on the forum.
Can this also be done with a TS-453Mini?
Thanks

Hello mate, how did you get on with this? My TS-453MINI has also just red lighted and need my data. Were you able to do this?

Any thoughts or tips please anyone?

Many thanks

[dolbyman]

apparently, if you see this message
viewtopic.php?f=45&t=157459&p=780596

you need to find the LPC header and bridge given pins with a resistor (100Ohm)

[devs101]

Hi there and thanks very much for the help. Are there any photos of where I need to attach the resistor? This is what the units board looks like and I'm about the order the following from amazon to try...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Carbon-Resisto ... 24&sr=8-10

Thank you

[dolbyman]

already replied here

viewtopic.php?f=25&t=163993&p=804266#p804271

[Nounours18200]

Are there any photos of where I need to attach the resistor?

See the attached diagram, but we currently have a technical problem with the download page...

diagram5.jpg