[Project] My Cat6 gigabit wired cabling project by Moogle

[Moogle Stiltzkin]

//foreword: before we start. i'm not saying that my way of doing it is the right way. i'm just saying this was what i did I just did my own research and got it done the best i could and also within my own budget. So do your own homework, but if this helps you then great.

I would appreciate any tippys to help improve on my plan

I'm planning to do some Cat6 gigabit cabling to extend the wired connection from where my modem/router is located, to another space in another room but via wired.

Since i am doing renovation (knocking down walls and stuff using a cheap labor force ) i took the opportunity to also get them to do my ethernet cabling as well.

Apparently they can do it, by putting (or should i say pulling) the cabling through the walls (which have hollow areas for cabling and etc). for my scenario, it has to traverse through a door, across a big long corridor, and into another wide room to get all the way across to the wall on the other side. Seems they can do the cabling going upwards toward the ceiling and through the walls (so i can avoid having to do this on the floor through below the doors apparently, an example like that youtube i linked below of how that nordic guy did his)

this is what i got (apparently these cables are made in Taiwan so you know they are quality products )

DINTEK CAT6 UTP NETWORK CABLE 305M 1BOX (1101-04004)



Product Description
Dintek Cat.6 4 Pair UTP Solid Cable, 23AWG (PVC) 305m/box, 1101-04004
Conductor : 23AWG Bare Solid Copper
Insulation : HDPE, FRPE, 100%FEP
Jacket : PVC
Color : Gray or Blue
Packaging : 305m (1000ft) / box, pull box
Application:
> Voice
> Fast Ethernet(IEEE802.3)
> 100Vg-AnyLAN(IEEE 802.12)
> Token Ring(IEEE 802.5)
> TP-PMD(ANSI X3T9.5)
> 100Base-T Ethernet(IEEE 802.3u)
> 155/622 Mbps 1.2/ 2.4 Gbps ATM
> 1000Base-T Ethernet
> 550 MHz Broadband video
Industry Standard:
> UL, ETL Verifi ed
> ANSI/TIA-568-C.2
> ISO/IEC 11801
> EN 50173
Cable Data:
> No. of Pairs:4
> Jacket Color:Gray
> Insulation Thickness: 0.22mm
> Nom.O.D.:6.5mm
> Flame Rating:CM
> Transmission quality verifi ed up to 250MHz
Product Electrical Characteristics:
> Impedance:100±15 ohms
> Mutual Capacitance, max. nf/ 100m: 5.6
> DC Resistance, max. Ohms/ 100m: 9.38
> Capacitance Unbalance(Pair to Ground): 330pf/ 100m max.

Unshielded Twisted Pair (UTP)

Unshielded twisted pair (UTP) is a ubiquitous type of copper cabling used in telephone wiring and local area networks (LANs). There are five types of UTP cables -- identified with the prefix CAT, as in category -- each supporting a different amount of bandwidth.

Alternatives to UTP cable include coaxial cable and fiber optic cable. There are benefits and tradeoffs to each type of cabling, but broadly speaking, most enterprises favor UTP cable due to its low cost and ease of installation.

How UTP cables work: Twisted pair design
Inside a UTP cable is up to four twisted pairs of copper wires, enclosed in a protective plastic cover, with the greater number of pairs corresponding to more bandwidth. The two individual wires in a single pair are twisted around each other, and then the pairs are twisted around each other, as well. This is done to reduce crosstalk and electromagnetic interference, each of which can degrade network performance. Each signal on a twisted pair requires both wires.

Twisted pairs are color-coded to make it easy to identify each pair. In North America, one wire in a pair is identified by one of five colors: blue, orange, green, brown or slate (gray). This wire is paired with a wire from a different color group: white, red, black, yellow or violet. Typically, one wire in a pair is solid-colored, and the second is striped with the color of its mate -- e.g., a solid blue wire would be paired with a white-and-blue striped wire -- so they can be easily identified and matched.

Different uses, such as analog, digital and Ethernet, require different pair multiples.

The twisted-pair design was invented by Alexander Graham Bell in 1881.

Types of UTP cables
The five categories of UTP cable are defined by the TIA/EIA 568 standard:

CAT3: Rarely used today, CAT3 is usually deployed in phone lines. It supports 10 Mbps for up to 100 meters.
CAT4: Typically used in token ring networks, CAT4 supports 16 Mbps for up to 100 meters.
CAT5: Used in Ethernet-based LANs, CAT5 contains two twisted pairs. It supports 100 Mbps for up to 100 meters.
CAT5e: Used in Ethernet-based LANs, CAT5e contains four twisted pairs. It supports 1 Gbps for 100 meters.
CAT6: Used in Ethernet-based LANs and data center networks, CAT6 contains four tightly wound twisted pairs. It supports 1 Gbps for up to 100 meters and 10 Gbps for up to 50 meters.

The most common connector used with UTP cable is an RJ-45.

Shielded vs. unshielded twisted pair cables
The unshielded in UTP refers to the lack of metallic shielding around the copper wires. By its very nature, the twisted-pair design helps minimize electronic interference by providing balanced signal transmission, making a physical shield unnecessary. In addition, different twist rates -- that is, varying the amount of twists between different pairs -- can also be used to reduce crosstalk. Because these protections come from how the wires are physically laid out, bending or stretching a UTP cable too much can damage the pairs and make interference more likely to occur.

In a shielded twisted pair (STP), the wires are enclosed in a shield that functions as a grounding mechanism. This is done to provide greater protection from electromagnetic interference and radio frequency interference; however, STP cable is more expensive and difficult to install, compared with UTP.

// notes: just a correction

fyi just noticed the CAT6 and 6A in the diagram is incorrect. CAT6A is good for 10G up to 100m and not 55m as stated.

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https://searchnetworking.techtarget.com/definition/Unshielded-Twisted-Pair

when putting the cabling inside the walls, this was an important tip to make sure it's done right

If you follow IEEE standard,
1) power run & network cable running in parallel should be 1 meter apart
2) bending radius at min 1 inch preferably 2 inch
3) when terminating, untwisted should be limited within the plug

This is a real life example

Sorry guys for the late reply.

Below is my network rack from outside. Brand Grow, 9U, that costs me RM 535.30 (including a fan, a rack as you can see from inside).

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https://i.imgur.com/ZJLHnbV.jpg

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https://i.imgur.com/Ov0Fr09.jpg

Inside, I'm using:

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https://i.imgur.com/bJLJ098.jpg

1. Unmanaged Network Switch (TP-LINK 24P 1Gbps): RM 399.00
2. CAT6 Patch Panel, NuroMicron: RM 402.27
(the rest is not necessary as you can see I have Belkin extension and a simple NAS. You can also noticed the TM modem)

All over my house, I have 16 ports in total (6x2 ports and 4x1 port)

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https://i.imgur.com/Njsehsy.jpg

My wireman charge me RM 4680.00 for the CAT6 wiring, including the piping, hacking and the wall plate, including the wiring up to the patch panel, as well as telephone line (from outside of my house to the rack, I don't think you can see it from the image).

My wireman used to do the LAN wiring. If you are hiring electrical wireman, make sure find someone for the patch panel connection. Even my wireman, they thought that the cable should be plugged in at the front of the patch panel. I asked them to redo; the cable should be terminated at the back of the panel. We as user can reconfigure simply by connecting a patch cable (CAT5e/CAT6 etc. for ethernet networking or CAT3 for telephone) to our switch or other devices. As you can see, some of ports at the patch panel I connect with RJ11 cables. That cables are connected to RJ11 splitter that connected to the phone port at the modem (I placed my router on top of the rack). This way I can connect telephones at the pre-configured ports. FYI, I hire different wireman for my 3-phase electrical wiring (as mentioned in my previous post). My point is, I want wireman that has experience in LAN wiring.

Please note that during the planning stage, I have tested Dintek brand CAT6 cable but the performance is similar to any other CAT6 cable. You need to make sure all the portion of the cable that is twisted remain twisted, not overly bent and insist that the cable must be inside of conduit. Do not simply hack your wall, lay the cable and then cover by cement. This will shorten your cable's life. Dintek is expensive that is not necessary.

My budget is just for CAT6 and CAT6a during the time is very expensive, not to mention CAT7 and I don't mind the unpopular brand for cables, patch panel (NuroMicron), wall plate (AMPNetconnect). For switch, right now unmanaged is enough for me. Just make sure it is gigabit.

https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?show ... p=91904531


How many Category 6 Ethernet Cables fit inside conduit?

Recommended conduit sizing for Cat6 cables are:

(3) Cables – 1/2″ Conduit
(5) Cables – 3/4″ Conduit
(8) Cables – 1″ Conduit
(14) Cables – 1- 1/4″ Conduit
(19) Cables – 1- 1/2″ Conduit
(32) Cables – 2″ Conduit

https://ownersrepny.com/2011/07/07/how- ... e-conduit/

hi guyz,

I understood that the UTP cable should not be too near a electrical cable to avoid magnetic interference. But i have a few question regarding that.
Cause i don't think my electrical man will be knowing those as he will just be helping me to pull the cable smile.gif

1. Does it means that UTP cable should not run parallel with the electrical cable?
2. Is there a minimum recommended distance between UTP cable and electrical cable?
3. Is it really important for us to have a piping to contain the UTP cable? if yes, will a normal electric piping will do or a special piping is needed?

Thanks in advance.

*
1 - Can run parallel, mush have some gab.

2 - House usually minimal 6", if you have high current equipments better to have 12" gap. Generally 6" is good enough.

3 - normal white conduit will do. Unless you run under the ground floor with earth/soil You need special cables and conduit.

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https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=1764609&view=findpost&p=59677863

found more cabling tips here
https://www.techrepublic.com/blog/10-th ... ork-cable/

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https://www.tpcwire.com/blog/the-dos-donts-of-installing-ethernet-cable

What is a Patch Panel? Do You Need One? *video, highly recommended as it simplifies the explanation and answers a lot of questions about wiring ethernet in your location

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lg2oGE02DJE

What Is a Patch Panel and Why Do We Need It?
Posted on September 5, 2018

When connecting a large number of devices to a server, switch, or other piece of networking hardware with a mass of cables, it is vital to make sure that you would manage all the cables well and plan everything out properly. Since you are not only setting things up for today, but also planning for any potential future growth, the scalability and flexibility of your cabling infrastructure need to be considered. A patch panel is an effective equipment to keep your data center or server room organized as well as make it much easier to move, add or change the cabling infrastructure in the future. What is a patch panel and why do we need it? This post will give you the answers.

What Is a Patch Panel?
A patch panel, also referred to as a patch bay, patch field or jack field, is a mounted hardware assembly that contains a set number of ports to connect and manage the incoming and outgoing fiber or copper cables. In a typical data center infrastructure, patch panels are often placed in a wiring closet to connect racks with each other. Each rack contains at least one patch panel, the back end of which is connected to the back end of the other one. Then you will need patch cords to connect servers or network switches to the ports on the front end of the patch panel in each rack.

A patch panel can provide interconnect or cross-connect patching methods to splice and terminate cables. It works by terminating cable elements and routing the signals to the final destination via the patch cords. When using patch panels, you just need to plug or unplug the corresponding patch cords to arrange circuits, thus creating flexible connections and improving efficiency greatly.

What Purpose Does a Patch Panel Serve?
The patch panel is one of the few components used in both copper and fiber cabling networks and almost all business network setups use patch panels for cabling installations. What is the point of using a patch panel for data centers or home networks? There are many advantages of using patch panels compared to attempting to run cables from each device directly into the central piece of the network hardware.

-Punching down the cable to patch panels allows mechanical relief to the comparatively expensive switch ports. If the cable from the wall or ceiling were to be plugged right into a switch port, that port could be subject to pulling, pushing, etc. and it does not take much for an RJ-45 plug to lose some connectivity like that - either with the inside of a switch port or with the connection to the cable itself.

-The ability to label individual cable runs in a patch panel creates a cleaner and more organized way of identifying signal flow, and troubleshooting technical problems becomes an easier chore.

-It gives you flexibility and prevents the need to re-run cables or swap equipment places around if you need to change something or if something breaks.
Some businesses use structured cabling for phones or you may have multiple businesses sharing office space. In these circumstances, a patch panel would also multiple different equipment to be easily connected to any outlet.

-The cables on the back of patch panels correspond to permanent jack locations in the users space, which can bring easy and accurate patch panel wiring for network newbies.

Conclusion
It is without a doubt that the patch panel is indispensable for nice cable management in network cabling systems. The patch panel is a perfect mix of density and flexibility which can organize the cables properly and route them into the network devices seamlessly. The patch panels in FS are quite easy to label and manage with superior performance. They work in conjunction with our enclosures, racks, and cable managers to help you build a more scalable and easily adaptable high-density network cabling system. What is a patch panel and why do we need it? Hope this blog helps.

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https://community.fs.com/blog/what-is-a-patch-panel-and-why-use-it.html

2 x wall outlet ethernet faceplates similar to this one



Networking 101: How To Punch Down Cat5/E/Cat6 Keystone Jack - FireFold

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0gxNZoPcnP4

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mGVFm7P7Ugw

I also got a TP-Link TL-SG1008D 8-Port gigabit unmanaged switch (no poe or 10gbe ). the reason i got this was because it was cheap and my other room only needs 8 ports at most (probably 5-6 would have been fine as well)

https://goughlui.com/2018/08/12/teardow ... et-switch/

other good alternatives is the

NETGEAR ProSAFE GS108 8-Port Gigabit Desktop Switch

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https://www.mbreviews.com/best-network-switches/#section122

If you require MORE ethernet ports, then these look good

TP-LINK 16 / 24 Port Gigabit Desktop Rackmount Switch ( TL-SG1024D / TL-SG1016D )

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zu0QTwkv2qo

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=om8_jXPG7oE

If you need a POE switch, these looked like they MAY be fine. But check the POE specs closely to see that it's what you need though but in terms of price they seemed reasonable.

TRENDnet TPE-LG80 or TP-Link TL-SG1008PE
https://www.mbreviews.com/best-network- ... t-tpe-lg80



Anyway so the setup would be something like this

Modem > router > managed switch > wall outlet ethernet faceplate (part1) >>>>>> cat6 wiring through the wall >>>>>>>>> wall outlet ethernet faceplate (part2) >>>> TP-Link TL-SG1008D 8 port gigabit switch > then connect to whatever device that needs a wired ethernet e.g. HDTV, android box, laptop ... QNAP NAS

So i can finally position a QNAP NAS right next to my HDTV. Although the desktop models are kinda big, i do have a TBS-453DX which i can put right beside my android media box just fine.


For short cables (for connecting to the devices), i'm also using cat6 (is this overkill for short cables? )




Big credits to this youtube video and forum thread for inspiring me to act on improving my wired network


10GBE Home Network: Installing Fiber Cable Budget Solution, Mikrotik Switch *obviously i did not follow what he did, but i learned a lot
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aCQASTQsZ64

https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?show ... p=91904531



my experience so far with this project taught me many things

1. if you are doing renovation involving lots of drilling and hammering, either move out somewhere until it's done, or have some headphones handy *noise canceller ideally (i swear it helped saved my hearing and me from a splitting headache )

2. PRE PLANNING IS IMPORTANT!! I cannot stress this enough. Everything, from knowing the parts you need, the total cost to do it within your budget etc...

3. most people can improve their wired networking with just some effort. Some people feel overwhelmed and think it's beyond them to do, but it's really not. highly recommended if you require to extend your wired ethernet over your premises, if you feel that wireless isn't really cutting it for you.

4. youtube and google has a lot of the info you need. and what you don't know, contract it out to the people that do (and for setting up the cabling and termination points etc).

[OneCD]

The twisted-pair design was invented by Alexander Graham Bell in 1881.

Cool, I learned something new today.

[Moogle Stiltzkin]

The twisted-pair design was invented by Alexander Graham Bell in 1881.

Cool, I learned something new today.

tbh i didn't know that either. I just knew he helped with making the telephone

Alexander Graham Bell: A Life of Innovation and Controversy
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CEH6DMuyLdA

highly recommended, since there is much more to the story apparently (contrary to the simplified version i was taught at school xd...)

[Moogle Stiltzkin]

anyway i forgot to mention that my first foray into extending wired ethernet was via use of ethernet homeplugs (probably the most cheapest and easiest option). You plug this into a power socket, and it had an ethernet port. You have a pair of these devices.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ywQeJCa3jl8

I found that the ones i used, ran a bit hot, and honestly i'm not sure that the performance met my expectations.

That said, the ones i used were probably closer to 1st gen power plugs, so things may have improved a lot since then.


For a while i looked into Actiontec MoCA coax to ethernet
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2GneearSPL0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rhCaZqxVAJE


In the end i ended up going for cat6 ethernet (this project i am doing right now)

[Moogle Stiltzkin]

I did take a look at QNAP QSW-308-1C-US 10GbE Switch, with 3-Port 10G SFP+ (One 10GbE SFP+/RJ45 Combo Port) and 8-Port Gigabit Unmanaged Switch
https://www.amazon.com/QNAP-QSW-308-1C- ... B07VC9T3WQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=46xD3xCfUTM


but i opted instead for the cheaper 1gbe x 8 ports switch for now

If you do need a 10gbe switch, probably consider the qnap or one of their other switch models like the QSW-1208-8C
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Oy4l6afVDU


hopefully sometime in future i can make that leap from 1gbe to 10gbe networking

So far my TBS-453DX has a 10gbe port on it, so short of a few steps away from a full blown 10gbe network (10gbe pcie addon for desktop pc + 10gbe switch. Optional: another pcie addon for the ts-877 to add a 10gbe port. I believe i would also need to either reconfigure the existing ssd to be used as cache for the raid5 4x4tb hdds or get new m.2 ssd for caching specifically for that based on the 10gbe guide here )


so for now i'll just be content with extending the wired ethernet to where its needed.

wireless is still useful (especially for mobile phones and devices), but i will only be using it for convenience and when high speed wired/low latency (for serious networking, moving tons of data around, netflix streaming or playing games competitively) is not really needed (watching youtube or basic web surfing, you don't really need wired, wireless suffices)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X2F4EFYM_MA

another plus, all the wiredly connected devices will have lan access for this setup. but wireless will be setup for guest access (no lan access, just internet). With an asus router running merlin firmware, is a simple matter to set wireless access for guest access. But configuring a pfsense router takes a bit more work configuring

furthermore, if i decided to separate the lan access in the other room, i could probably do that via my managed switch, by setting up a vlan if i choose to.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oo-hejIq3iQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_PPaArOxHhw

this is just an example for vlan setup guide for a managed netgear switch (google for one applicable to your own managed switch)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DhLItU3jHtE

Inexpensive Budget Switch: TP Link TL-SG108E HW Rev. 3.0 With VLANS & pfsense Review @13:40 *also configuring a vlan example
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ohLAFHnOHg

[Moogle Stiltzkin]

when this project is completed, i'll be testing the wired networking speed from the new location using an intel laptop. i'll report back the result then.

[Moogle Stiltzkin]

doing research i discovered the patch panel. the gist of it is, if you have a bunch of ethernet faceplate termination points around the house, then yes, i can imagine a patch panel is definitely warranted because you are wiring MULTIPLE cat 6 cables, and they all exit out to the location where your modem/router are located at (there will also be a switch here to cope with all those many ethernet cables)

but for me, i'm only planning on 1 ethernet faceplate termination point to 1 room. mine is probably a very modest and simple setup

so the room with my modem/router would just have 1 ethernet cable from a faceplate termination point. so i don't see a problem with that in terms of neatness.

at most it will just be 1 ethernet cable from the ethernet faceplate mount to the switch. then from there , there are ethernet cables going to the other devices. i can live with that.

If however there were a bunch of cables pulled through the walls and exiting to the main networking room, then yeah, i would definitely pay for a patch cable faceplate and a box for that.

but instead my setup uses a cheap ikea shelving unit
https://www.ikea.com/my/en/p/kallax-she ... -70362917/

I put my QNAP NAS and other networking gear on it. Works great for NAS, but for modem, router it's sufficient if not as nice as some other storage cabinets for networking gear i've seen elsewhere e.g.

Below is my network rack from outside. Brand Grow, 9U, that costs me RM 535.30 (including a fan, a rack as you can see from inside).


GROWV 9U STANDARD 3XPOWER OUTLET 19'' 467MM(H)X500MM(W)X600MM(D) WALL MOUNT RACK - $65 usd *cheaper than i thought it would be

Size: 9U
Lockable Front Perforated Door
Side Panels
19" Server Compatible Mounting Element
20 Sets M6 Caged Nuts & Screws
13Amp Power Point Channel Complete Socket
Finished High Quality Epoxy Powder Coated (Black)
Power Outlet : 3 Socket
Dimensions (L x W x H): 50.0 x 60.0 x 46.7 cm
Weight: 12.0 kg

https://www.asashi.com.my/categories/Wa ... -Rack/2175


Navepoint 9U IT Wallmount Cabinet Enclosure 19-Inch Server Network Rack
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6lOT90kGgyU
https://www.amazon.com/Navepoint-Wallmo ... B00JZVUBFE


the most important point for me is that the cat 6 UTP solid ethernet cables are terminated at the faceplate mounted to the wall. So i won't be handling those cables on a daily basis. Instead i will have separate ethernet cat 6 short cables that are designed for daily handling

[Moogle Stiltzkin]

This guy's setup is close to what i'm trying to do. although his is a much nicer setup than mine

Hi guys,

I know this is an old thread. Just want to share that I managed to install gigabit (CAT6 only) in my house. Inside the wall (in conduit), above the ceiling (in conduit), network rack, patch panel etc. Total of 16 ports, 24 port unmanaged TP-LINK switch.

I bought the rack, patch panel, switch by myself. Everything else were supplied by my wireman. He charged me around RM 4500 (if I'm not mistaken), including spare piping for Unifi as well as rewiring my phone (initially from back of my house to the living room, but now from rear of my house to the network rack, if I have to use Streamyx in future).

Recently installed Unifi 100 Mbps and very happy with it. Some ports I used for telephones (simple reconfiguration at the patch panel), and some for access points (managed to cover the all the 2.4 GHz channels for my SSID).

My house is just a double storey terrace. Did conversion from single phase to three phase and thought of doing the gigabit wiring at the same time.

Performance, basic copy to/from my NAS (mechanical hard drive) and my PC (also mechanical drive) can be up to around 200 - 350 Mbps. I know it is slow but this is the normal achievable speed from reviews around the world. I haven't try with RAM Disk yet.

Maybe some of you might wonder why not CAT5e? - I'm preparing for 10Gbe in future. CAT6 can cover up to 10 Gbps with max length of 100 meters. The longest cable in my house does not reach 100 meters.

Maybe some of you might wonder why not CAT6a/CAT7? - These along with fibre are very expensive.

Maybe some of you might wonder why doing all these? - I hate to see network cables all around my previous house. And I hate to see the black fibre cable by TM for their Unifi.

I look forward to include PoE access points, ethernet-based CCTV in future.

I'm here to help if anyone wants to do the same.

https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?show ... p=91749542

[Moogle Stiltzkin]

one user's advise was for a poe switch, because then you can setup an AP like this

if got extra budget. get the poe and buy POE AP and mount it on the ceiling

This is the one i bought.
https://www.dlink.com.my/product/dap-26 ... ess-point/

Cleaner setup.. no more cable dangling






You run the cable inside a conduit.. just dont place it too close with electrical wirings..

How many port? depends on how many devices you want to connect to the gigabit network.. IF you ever think of future upgrade.. just get the one with more ports.. the price not much difference.. Bought 16 ports years ago.. now need to buy new switch cause it is not enough.. get more not less.. in the end you still need to add if you buy cukup cukup for now..

Get the keystone jack with cat6.. You DIY or the wiring guy do it for you.. get a cable tester as well.. you dont want to be dissapointed when you thought everything is done then cannot use...

My gigabit switch
https://www.dlink.com.my/product/24-por ... -thailand/

POE gigabit switch
https://www.dlink.com.my/product/dgs-10 ... oe-switch/

The poe gigabit switch can be used for cctv as wel.. I used this switch for my cctv and POE AP.

tbh i don't know why he uses so many dlink products. i'm quite wary of them

https://www.bleepingcomputer.com/news/s ... -security/

[dolbyman]

for one of the mesh wifi I build, I scored a 1GbE 24 port managed netgear switch for 500bucks ... was a pretty sweat deal ..works great

[Moogle Stiltzkin]

500bucks ?? sounds good but i don't really need that many ports. how many ports do you actually use just wondering i'm just curious what kind of setup requires that many.


How to test and check Home Ethernet Network continuity using a RJ45/RJ11 Cable Tester
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3tHvOLBp2zM

off to the shops to buy 1 cable tester (they are dirt cheap )

the workers will be doing the wall cabling tomorrow, so i'm also getting those cat6 keystones as well.

and tools to do the punch down (as mentioned in the video)

- punch down tool
- crimping with a knife sort of tool (2 in 1)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mGVFm7P7Ugw


Anyway, basically this is what they are going to do more or less. but anyway, i'll be observing their technique first hand
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MzYBNMS6dzw

[dolbyman]

it's a multi mesh cluster of access points for a commercial shared office

currently running 20 mesh nodes for spanning coverage (also 2 security cams on it too) ..so don't have much headroom

[Moogle Stiltzkin]

oo... thats pretty hardcore.

my setup is mostly for my own personal usage. basic networking, nothing fancy.

[Moogle Stiltzkin]

Structured Cabling Discussion: Working With CAT5e, CAT6, CAT6A & Shielded Patch Panels
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aVtOmrULE2w

[Moogle Stiltzkin]

okay so they finished laying the cable.

they did use some sort of pipe (i think pvc? ) to put the ethernet cable in.

and they had to drill out a long line in the wall to get the cable in. and when they were done, they cemented it back up.

the only thing not finished is doing the cable termination points. need to cut it, then insert into the keystone, then do the face mount (the inner mount is already inserted into the dug out hole already).